Updated for 2021: Going overland from Tibet to Nepal is a great trip, but few agencies tell you the dangers of doing this during monsoon season.
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UPDATED FOR 2021
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From mid June thru mid September, the roads in Nepal can be covered in thick mud and can be prone to mud and rockslides.
Tibet to Nepal Overland during the Rainy Season
The overland route connecting Lhasa, Tibet with Mt Everest and Kathmandu, Nepal is regarded as one of the best road trips in Asia. It is full of amazing natural beauty, cultural sites, pilgrimage destinations and goes up close to Mt Everest. I have done this route dozens of times and never get tired of doing it. However, certain months are better than others when planning to do this route. While roads in Tibet are quite good and are rarely affected by heavy rain, roads in Nepal can be severely affected during the monsoon. Most travel companies will not tell their clients the risks of traveling from the Tibet border to Kathmandu during the monsoon.
When to travel from Tibet to Nepal
The best months to do this journey are from April until very early June and again from late September thru December. You can do this overland journey in January as well, as long as you are prepared for cold temperatures. (NOTE: Tibet is normally closed to foreign travelers each year from around mid February until the first of April). The roads in Tibet are now nearly all paved, which is a huge improvement compared to conditions just a few years back. Because of this, the roads in Tibet are typically not affected badly by the annual monsoon rains.
Once you reach the Tibet—Nepal border crossing, you leave the good, paved roads of Tibet and begin traveling on the poor, mostly dirt roads of Nepal. It is 130 kilometers from the Tibet—Nepal border to Kathmandu. During the dry season, this section of road is quite safe to travel, though it is very bumpy for most of the way.
When to avoid going overland to Nepal
The monsoon rains in Nepal and other areas on the south side of the Himalayas begin by early June and last until early to mid September. Rain, very heavy at times, falls nearly everyday during this season causing many roads in Nepal to be washed out and covered in thick, deep mud. This can make traveling roads in Nepal slow, very dangerous and even deadly. In November 2019 I asked some of the drivers who frequently drive between Kathmandu and the Nepal-Tibet border what was the longest time it took them to drive the 130 kilometers. The longest was SEVEN DAYS! This was due to massive rockslides and many vehicles being stuck in mud.
Because of the massive height of the Himalaya Range, Tibet receives far less rain than Nepal during this time (rain shadow effect). So traveling the main travel routes in Tibet are completely fine during the months when Nepal has heavy rain.
It is important to understand the risk during the monsoon season, which is why I am writing this post. Most travel companies will arrange the overland journey from Lhasa to Kathmandu during the rainy season, which can potentially place clients at risk of accident. Our company, Himalaya Journey, specializes in high quality journeys along this route, but we won’t risk our clients safety in arranging this journey during the monsoon season. You can travel to all areas of Tibet, but I recommend waiting to do the overland route from Lhasa to Kathmandu during the dry season.
The roads in Tibet are paved and can be traveled on anytime of year
Summary: Travel during the monsoon rains
Nepal gets hit by heavy rain from early June until mid September causing many roads to be prone to rock and mud slides. This is particularly true of the 130 kilometer long section of road connecting the Tibet—Nepal border with Kathmandu. Due to the risk of accident or severe delay, I suggest doing the overland route from Lhasa to Kathmandu only during the dry season. The best months are April until early June and again from late September thru December.
If you have any questions about this post or have travel questions about Tibet, contact us! We are happy to give you all the free travel advice you need based on decades of travel experience in the region: thelandofsnows@gmail.com