Everest viewed from Rongbuk Monastery at an elevation of just under 5000 meters.

The sun setting over Everest

Tibetan woman spinning a prayer wheel at Rongbuk Monastery

1. How do I get to Everest Base Camp?

As everyone should already know, the only way that foreigners can go to the Tibet side of Mt. Everest is by arranging an organized tour through a travel agency. There are NO exceptions. In order to go to Everest, you need to contact a travel agency, preferably owned by Tibetans and based in Tibet, and have them arrange the required travel permits, tour guide, private vehicle and driver. You cannot use public transportation (ie. buses) to travel to Everest. For recommendations on which travel agency to use to go to Everest or other regions of Tibet, send me an email at thelandofsnows@gmail.com.

2. How long does it take to get to Everest from Lhasa? 

Everest Base Camp (EBC), elevation 5200 meters, is nearly 600 kilometers (375 miles) southwest of Lhasa. Because of the distance and the high elevation of EBC, 3 or 4 days are normally taken to drive there from Lhasa. Most people prefer to visit the many amazing sights along the way to EBC such as Yamdrok Lake, Gyantse, Shigatse and Sakya Monastery. For a suggested itinerary from Lhasa to the Nepal border via EBC, read the following link:

Lhasa to Everest itinerary

3. How long is the hike to Everest Base Camp?

Unlike the Nepal side of Everest, no hiking is required to reach the Tibet side of Everest. You can drive all the way to Everest Base Camp.

Tibetans doing work on the road to Everest Base Camp

4. What types of accommodations are available at Everest Base Camp?

During the high season (late April through mid October) there are 3 main places to stay in the Everest Base Camp area. The first place is the Rongbuk Government Hotel. This ugly looking hotel is way overpriced for the services it provides. It is located about 350 meters away from Rongbuk Monastery and about 8 kilometers north of Everest Base Camp.

The second option is the simple guesthouse run by the monks of Rongbuk Monastery. They offer simple rooms for a very minimal price. The advantage of staying at the monastery is the excellent view of Everest viewed from just above the monastery.

The third place to stay in the area is at the “tent hotels”, which are about 4 or 5 kilometers past Rongbuk Monastery and about 3 kilometers before Everest Base Camp. This is the closest to the mountain that you can sleep without having a climbing/trekking permit. The “tent hotels” are a group of about 30 traditional yak wool tents that local Tibetans turn into guesthouses. The tents are all basically the same with beds, lots of blankets and serving hot drinks and simple Tibetan and Western food. These tents are not available during the low season.

Without a climbing or trekking permit, it is not possible to actually stay at the official Everest Base Camp. The “tent hotels” are the closest place you can stay. The elevation of Rongbuk Monastery (4950 meters) and the “tent hotels” (5050 meters) are both very high. If you feel ill due to altitude, an alternative to staying in the Everest region is to stay in the lower elevation villages of Tashi Dzom or Basum. Both of these villages lie below 4300 meters, considerably lower than the places near base camp. Both villages offer simple Tibetan style guesthouses with meals. Tashi Dzom is more popular because it is bigger, but Basum is also a nice place to stay. From Tashi Dzom and Basum, it takes about an hour to 75 minutes to reach EBC.

Traditional horse cart going through the village of Basum, located about an hour north of Everest Base Camp

Overlooking the village of Basum. This is a good place to spend the night if you feel the elevation of EBC is too high.

A Tibetan-style guesthouse in Tashi Dzom

The “tent hotels” with Everest rising above. Without a climbing permit, this is the closest to the mountain where you can spend the night.

The highest post office in the world!

5. Is Rongbuk Monastery located at Everest Base Camp?

No, Rongbuk Monastery is located about 8 kilometers north of Everest Base Camp (EBC). The road to EBC goes right past Rongbuk Monastery so the monastery is impossible to miss. All travel agencies will make a stop at Rongbuk along the way to EBC.

6. When are the best months to see a clear view of Everest?

The best months to see a clear view of Everest are from mid/late September through early May. During these months, the weather is usually clear offering excellent views of the mountain. I have been to the Everest Region more than a dozen times during this time frame. Only once (January 2004) have I not had a crystal clear view of the mountain.

Though the peak high season for travel in Tibet is during the summer months from June through early September, the views of Everest are often not good during this time. Don’t expect clear views of the mountain in the summer, especially in July and August.

7. Is Everest Base Camp going to be covered in heavy snow?

Though EBC sits at 5200 meters, it is rare to see heavy snow on the ground in the area. While snow does fall in the region, the strong rays of the sun quickly melt away the snow. In all of the times I have been to EBC, I have never seen more than 50 mm (2 inches) of snow on the ground there. Most of the times I have been there, there hasn’t been any snow on the ground.

8. Is it possible to go to Everest Base Camp in the winter?

Yes, you can go to EBC in the winter months. The road to EBC rarely receives heavy snow, so getting there is no problem. The “tent hotels” are not open during the winter months and the Rongbuk Government Hotel is also usually closed. The Rongbuk Monastery guesthouse usually remains open as do the guesthouses in Tashi Dzom and Basum (both a little over an hour north of EBC).

An expedition tent at Everest Base Camp

Overlooking Rongbuk Monastery, the highest monastery in the world, with Everest rising in the background.

The sun setting on Everest

Rongbuk Monastery with Everest rising in the distance

9. Can you see Everest from the main road that connects Lhasa to the Nepal border?

Yes, there are a few places that you can see Everest from the main road, but none of the views are amazing. In order to really get a good view of Everest, you will have to take the cut-off from the main road. From the main road, the road to Everest Base Camp is around 100 kilometers. The road is dirt, but is in good condition.

Many people ask me if it is worth it to take the 170 kilometer detour (100 kilometers to EBC and another 70 kilometers along the back road to Old Tingri) to see Everest. If it is during the months when the weather is clear, it is absolutely worth it! The views of Everest from base camp are so much better than the views from the main road.

10. Is it possible to trek to EBC?

Yes, trekking the Everest Region is quite popular. The best time to go is in late April and then from mid-September to late October. There are 2 main routes to take. The first is from the village of Baber (often incorrectly referred to as “New Tingri”) to Everest Base Camp going via the villages of Chay, Tashi Dzom and Basum. This route usually takes about 4 days. In my opinion, this is not a very good route as the views of Everest and the rest of the Himalaya’s are not that good until you get closer to Rongbuk Monastery (the exception being the amazing sweeping view of the Himalaya’s from the Pang La pass).

A more interesting route in my opinion is trekking from EBC to the small town of Old Tingri. This route is about 70 kilometers long and can be done in 3 or 4 days. There are several small villages along the way and in addition to seeing good views of Everest, you can also get excellent views of Cho Oyu, the 6th highest peak in the world.

As with all treks in the Tibet Autonomous Region, treks in the EBC region need to be arranged in advance through a travel agency. Even if you have an organized tour, you cannot decide to do a trek at EBC once you arrive there. It must be arranged prior to you arriving in Lhasa.

11. Is it possible to trek higher than Everest Base Camp?

Yes, though it is not often advertised on travel agency websites, many Lhasa-based companies can arrange treks up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). ABC sits at 6400 meters. From EBC, it takes 4 days to trek to ABC and back down to EBC. Usually this route is free of ice and snow meaning crampons and ropes are not required. ABC, which requires an additional permit,  is the highest you can go on Everest without a climbing permit.

12. Can I go and talk to climbing expeditions while at EBC?

No, if you don’t have a trekking or climbing permit that allows you beyond EBC, you will not be allowed to interact with climbing teams. Climbing teams almost always base themselves 500 meters to 2 kilometers beyond EBC. Military personnel patrol the area and will not allow anyone beyond EBC who does not have the proper permits. Trying to sneak past the military will result in a fine of 1500 RMB ($240) or more and will cause your guide to get into serious trouble.

13. How much are the entrance fees for visiting EBC?

In order to enter the Everest Region, you not only need to purchase an entrance ticket, but you also need to purchase a vehicle entrance ticket. The price of an entrance ticket is 180 RMB ($29) per person. You (or your group) are also responsible for purchasing a ticket for your guide. In addition to this, you also have to purchase a 400 RMB ($65) vehicle entrance fee which includes the fee for the driver. Be advised that these prices are scheduled to be raised by summer 2013.

During the main tourist season (late April through mid/late October), vehicles can only drive to the “tent hotels”, which are located about 5 kilometers past Rongbuk Monastery and about 3 kilometers before EBC. In order to get from the “tent hotels” to EBC during the tourist season, everyone must buy a ticket for the bus that travels these 3 kilometers. This “environmentally friendly” bus costs around 25 RMB ($4) per person for the roundtrip journey and leaves about every hour or so. You will also have to purchase a ticket for your guide, who has to accompany you to EBC.  During the low season, this bus ceases to operate. Your driver can drive all the way to EBC during the low season.

Everest viewed from the Pang La Pass along the way to base camp.

The road from Rongbuk Monastery to Everest Base Camp

14. Which travel agency should I use to arrange my tour to Everest Base Camp?

Send me an email and let me know how long you plan to be in Tibet and what areas you want to go to. I will gladly get back to you with a recommendation on which travel agency to use. My email address is thelandofsnows@gmail.com

Do you have a question about the Everest Region that I didn’t answer? Send me an email with your question and I will add it to this list!

Losang བློ་བཟང་

Many people ask if it is possible to cycle in Tibet. Not only is it possible to cycle in Tibet, it has become very popular over the past 10 years. The same travel regulations apply however, if you want to cycle. There is no independent travel and you still need to be part of an organized tour that includes travel permits, a tour guide and a private vehicle with a driver. There are NO exceptions to these regulations. This of course, causes the price of cycling tours in Tibet to be out of range for most budget travelers. Most cycling trips in Tibet take 2 to 4 weeks and it can get costly having to pay for a guide, private vehicle and driver for that long. Even though you plan to cycle, the government still requires all foreigners to have a “support vehicle” to go with them. The support vehicle usually follows a few kilometers in front or behind you. The guide normally rides in the vehicle and is there if you have any questions about the route or the towns that you pass through. Unless you book a tour through a company that only arranges cycling tours, you will be responsible for all the maintenance of your bike.

Experience Tibetan culture up-close on a cycling journey!

The Amdo and Kham regions however, do NOT require travel permits or group tours. These areas remain open to independent cyclists and offer some of the best preserved Tibetan culture on the Tibetan Plateau.

Extravagant Yak arranges excellent, high-quality cycling trips through the amazing Kham region of the Tibetan Plateau. I personally know the owners of this company and guarantee that they will arrange an amazing cycling journey for you! When you contact them, tell them that Losang from the Land of Snows recommended you to them.

Most of the roads across the Tibetan Plateau have improved greatly over recent years. A lot of the popular cycling routes are now on paved roads. For those wanting to get off the beaten path, there are still dirt roads in fair condition that span across northern Tibet as well as more remote regions of the Amdo and Kham regions. The most popular route to cycle is from Lhasa to the Nepal border via Everest Base Camp. This route normally takes 12 to 15 days to cycle. The route around the Yarlung Valley going east from Lhasa is also a popular choice as is the long route out to Mt. Kailash in far western Tibet.

In the Kham region, the overland route from Kangding to Shangri La has become quite popular. Since this route lies in western Sichuan and northwest Yunnan provinces, no organized tour is required making this route affordable for all budgets. This area is rich in Tibetan culture, even better than some areas in the Tibet Autonomous Region, so don’t feel like you are not seeing the “real Tibet” by taking this route. A popular cycling route in Amdo is the route from Chengdu to Xining via northern Sichuan, southwest Gansu and eastern Qinghai.

If you plan to cycle in Tibet, make sure you bring a good tent, sleeping bag and other quality camping gear. There are towns along most of the popular cycling routes, but you will still need to camp in between towns. Though the Amdo and Kham regions, found in western Sichuan, northern Sichuan, Qinghai, southwest Gansu and northwest Yunnan provinces, are excellent and do not require any organized tour, all foreigners planning to cycle in the Tibet Autonomous Region MUST be part of an organized tour. There are many travel agencies that can arrange cycling tours with the required travel permits, tour guide, private vehicle and driver. Arranging cycling tours in Tibet is very easy to do. Feel free to email me at  thelandofsnows@gmail.com  for recommended travel agencies to use when cycling in Tibet or contact Extravagant Yak directly:

Extravagant Yak Cycling

Plateau Photo Tours, which I co-own, will be hosting a Photography Workshop in Garze Prefecture in the traditional Tibetan region of Kham from October 10 to October 19. Garze prefecture has the largest population of Tibetan people of any of the prefectures on the Tibetan Plateau. Full of Buddhist monasteries, pilgrimage sites, grasslands, yak herding communities, farming villages, snow-capped peaks, alpine forests and pristine rivers, it also is full of traditional Tibetan culture that cannot be found in other areas of Tibet.

Nomad Tibetan woman

Snow-capped peaks along the way from Lhagang to Kangding (Dartsedo)

Yaks on the grasslands near Lhagang. We will be in this area October 16 and 17

This photography workshop will be led by professional photographers Matt Brandon and Brian Hirschy. Matt Brandon is a Malaysia based humanitarian and travel photographer who collaborates with NGOs to tell their stories and to train their field staff to do the same. Well known as a photographer and international workshop instructor, Matt’s images have been used by clients such as Partner Aid International, NeighborWorks, the BBC, Honda Motor Corporation, and Bombadier Transport Corporation, Asian Geographic, KLM Airlines and others. His photographic pursuits have taken him to the countries of Egypt, Tibet, India, Indonesia, Thailand, Maldives, Philippines, Malaysia to name a few. 

Brian Hirschy is a working photographer living in Western China who has a passion for teaching photography, participating in the growing photographic community, and helping NGO’s in Southeast Asia communicate their amazing stories – all in an effort to actively do good rather than complain simply complain. Brian’s passion is unique photos of unique places and people of those places while distinctly focusing on the humanity, uniqueness, sensativity, human connection, and creativity that is found in every culture.

Spending 10 days with these two professional photographers and we are certain that you will learn aspects of photography that you didn’t know before. In addition, this journey will take you to some of the most beautiful regions of the Tibetan Plateau.

Overlooking Kangding. We will be here on October 18th

Traditional style stone house used by Tibetans in the Danba area. We will be here October 11 and 12.

 After spending one night in Chengdu, China, we will depart for the highlands of the Tibetan Plateau. Our first destination will be the farming villages around the town of Danba. We will spend 2 nights photographing a few small traditional Tibetan farming villages, one of which won  a National Geographic award for the “most beautiful village in China”. After Danba, we will make our way to the mid-sized town of Garze. Garze lies surrounded by snow-capped peaks with many monasteries and yak herding communities in the vicinity. We will spend 3 nights in this picturesque area. From Garze, we will drive to the small nomad trading post of Lhagang. Along the way, we will pass through herding communities that we will stop and photograph. Lhagang has several small monasteries in the region as well as a nunnery. The 5820 meter snow-capped peak of Zhare Lhatse lies close by. After Lhagang, we will go to the scenic prefecture capital town of Kangding before returning to Chengdu.

Young Tibetan man from Garze. We will be in this amazing area on October 13, 14 and 15.

The snow-capped peaks above Garze. We will be here October 13, 14 and 15.

Kham Tibetan man from Lhagang. We will be in the Lhagang area on October 16 and 17.

This tour will take us well off the beaten path to parts of Tibet that few people travel to. We will be experiencing traditional culture that most travelers to Tibet didn’t know existed. Your two workshop instructors will help take you to the next level in your photography skill. You will also have 2 guides accompanying you who are experts in Tibetan culture and history. Not only will you walk away from this tour with an amazing portfolio of images from Tibet that nobody else has, you will come away with a deep understanding of the Tibetan people and their unique culture.

Yaks in the nomadic grasslands around Garze. We will be in this area on October 13, 14 and 15.

A monastery on the Lhagang grasslands with a 5820 meter mountain in the background. We will be here October 16 and 17.

Map of the areas in eastern Tibet that we will be going to during this photography workshop.

Here is the itinerary that this photography workshop will be following:

October 10: All participants must arrive in Chengdu, China by 4pm. We will stay in a centrally located 4 Star hotel in the city. Workshop begins this evening with dinner. Chengdu elevation: 500 meters.

October 11: We will depart Chengdu in the morning for the Tibetan Plateau. Our first destination will be Danba, a picturesque town surrounded by small Tibetan farming villages. We will stay in one of these villages photographing traditional Tibetan farming culture. The distance from Chengdu to Danba is 330 kilometers (205 miles). Danba elevation: 2000 meters

October 12: We will spend this day exploring a couple of nearby Tibetan farming villages in the mountains surrounding Danba. One of the villages we will be going to was named “China’s Most Beautiful Village” by National Geographic. We will be staying the night in one of these villages.

October 13: In the morning, we will leave Danba and drive 330 kilometers (205 miles) to the mid-sized Tibetan town of Garze. Garze sits in a valley at 3375 meters and is surrounded by rugged, snow-capped peaks. We will spend a few days being based in Garze while we explore the nearby area, which has many villages, monasteries and nomadic communities. We will stay in a nice hotel in the center of town the 3 nights we are here.

October 14: We will explore several of the small villages surrounding Garze as well as two large Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. Nearly 400 monks live in Darjay Monastery, about 30 kilometers outside of Garze. Along the way to the monastery, we will stop at several small farming and herding communities to photograph traditional Tibetan culture. We will stay this night in Garze.

October 15: We will spend one final day exploring and photographing the unique and beautiful  Tibetan culture in and around the town of Garze. We will again stay at a nice hotel in town.

October 16: This day, we will depart Garze and drive 275 kilometers (170 miles) to the small nomad trading town of Lhagang. From Lhagang, there is an amazing view of the snow-capped peak of Yala Snow Mountain, which rises to 5820 meters. Nomad traders, often times on horse-back, come into town each day to stock up on supplies. We will have many opportunities to see and photograph Tibetan nomad culture. Lhagang sits at 3725 meters. In Lhagang we will stay in a Tibetan style guesthouse.

October 17: We will spend the day exploring the area in and around Lhagang. We will photograph both a monastery and a nunnery as well as explore the nearby nomadic grasslands.

October 18: In the mid-morning, we will depart Lhagang for the large town of Kangding, about 100 kilometers (62 miles) away. Kangding is the capital of Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture and lies at an elevation of 2600 meters. Along the way to Kangding, if the weather is clear, we will have a great view of snow-capped peaks rising above 6000 meters, including Mt. Minya Konka. Minya Konka is the highest mountain in eastern Tibet and rises to 7556 meters. Kangding is a scenic town lying along a glacier fed river that has several Tibetan monasteries and markets for us to explore. We will stay in a nice 3 Star hotel in the center of Kangding.

October 19: The final day of the workshop will have us drive 330 kilometers (205 miles) back to Chengdu. We will stay in a 4 Star hotel in the central part of Chengdu. The workshop will end in the evening.

Tibetan woman from Danba. We will be here October 11 and 12.

Tibetan woman getting fresh milk near Garze. We will be in this area October 13, 14 and 15.

A monastery in Kangding. We will be here on October 18.

A farming village in the Danba area. We will be here October 11 and 12.

A Tibetan woman from Lhagang. We will be here on October 16 and 17.

For more information about this photography workshop, please send me an email at jamin@plateauphototours.com. For more information about this photography workshop, including how to apply, go to the Plateau Photo Tours site: Tibet Photography Workshop.

Total cost is $3950 USD: Considering you will have 2 workshop instructors and 2 guides, this is a great bargain! Participants are responsible for their own travel arrangements to Chengdu, but we take care of just about everything from there. Send us an email (jamin@plateauphototours.com)  if you have any questions or need more information.

Space is limited to just ten participants and two workshop leaders in order to give you the best experience possible. You will also be accompanied by two full-time guides, who are experts in Tibetan culture and history.

I hope to have you join us in October!

Farming village near Danba. We will be here October 11 and 12.

Nomad Tibetan girl from the Garze area. We will be here October 13, 14 and 15.

The first time I arrived at the Larung Gar Buddhist Institute, I couldn’t believe my eyes! I couldn’t believe that something this HUGE could exist on the Tibetan Plateau. Located in Sertar County, Garze Prefecture དཀར་མཛེས་ཁུལ་གསེར་ཐར་རྫོང་ in the traditional Tibetan region of Kham found in western Sichuan, Larung Gar is home to over 40,000 monks, nuns and lay-students. Some sources claim that there are only 10,000 monks and nuns here, but that number is incorrect. Several monks at Larung Gar told me that there are at least 40,000 people living there and possibly more. Looking around the massive complex of Larung Gar, you can easily see that this place is home to many tens of thousands of people.

One of an estimated 9000 nuns at Larung Gar

Nun reading mantras

Just a small part of Larung Gar

Larung Gar sits in a valley at 4000 meters in elevation, about 4kms off of the main road and about 15kms before reaching the county town of Sertar. Huge prayer wheels mark the entrance to the institute. The campus is enormous…much larger than I ever imagined. Houses for monks and nuns sprawl all over the valley and up the surrounding mountains. A huge wall through the middle of Larung Gar separates the monk side from the nun side. Monks and nuns are not allowed out of their designated areas except at a common area open to both monks and nuns is found in front of the main monastery assembly hall. The houses are all built in a wood style that is traditionally found in this region. The houses are built so close together that they are almost on top of each other. How the monks and nuns find their specific house among ten thousand plus houses is beyond me!

Monks walking around Larung Gar

One of the many small stores in the valley

An older monk in Sertar

Sertar and Larung Gar Buddhist Institute are sensitive areas that are often closed to foreign travelers. It is difficult to predict if the area will be open or not. I asked several of the Tibetan owned travel agencies that I associate with and they said that, for the most part, they did not have any problems taking groups of foreign travelers to the Sertar area last year. They knew of a handful of groups that were denied entry, but that most were permitted to enter. What the situation will be like in 2013 is impossible to say. I went during the winter. The air temperature was at least  -25C (-13F) when I was there in December, and perhaps even colder. The few police that I saw in the area were probably more concerned about staying warm than keeping an eye out for foreigners. Larung Gar sits at 4000m / 13,100 feet so make sure you are acclimatized before going there. Summers are pleasant, but winters are deathly cold with temperatures getting as cold as -40C.

Some of the thousands of homes at Larung Gar

Pilgrims at Larung Gar

Man spinning a large hand-held prayer wheel

Though located in Garze Prefecture, which is home mainly to Kham-speaking Tibetans, Sertar is traditionally a part of Golok, which is an Amdo speaking area sound in southeast Qinghai. A large percentage of the native people in this area will speak Amdo Tibetan as a first language. Among local Tibetans, the area is referred to as “Golok Sertar”.

Sertar County is not an easy place to get to. It is quite remote and far from any city. The nearest large city is Chengdu, which is 650 kilometers away and takes 13 to 15 hours to reach by vehicle. Because of the high elevation of Sertar, it is recommended that you take a couple of acclimatization days before arriving. I recommend going from Chengdu to Kangding (330 kilometers, multiple buses per day). Stay at night or two in Kangding. The last time I checked, there were not direct buses from Kangding to Sertar. You first need to go to Garze (385 kilometers, 1 bus per day) and then take either a bus or a shared mini-van taxi to Sertar and Larung Gar (distance: 150 kilometers).

The main attraction is this area is Larung Gar. The dusty town of Sertar, 25 kilometers from Larung Gar, has a couple of decent hotel options to choose from and plenty of restaurants and small stores.

If you have any questions about Larung Gar, need a recommendation on a travel agency or have any other travel related questions on Tibet, send an email to me at thelandofsnows@gmail.com

Pilgrims walking around a temple at Larung Gar

Outside the main chapel at Larung Gar

The Sichuan Part of Kham is easily one of the most beautiful regions of the Tibetan Plateau. It has everything one could ask for: high snow-capped peaks, beautiful alpine grasslands filled with yaks and sheep, deep river valleys, stunning turquoise lakes and some of the best preserved Tibetan culture remaining. You can explore small farming villages as well as traditional nomad communities throughout the area. The Sichuan Part of Kham is also an excellent place for adventure tourism! There are many places to go hiking, cycling or to take an overland adventure to places that relatively few travelers get to explore.

Glacier along the Minya Konka (Gongga Shan) Trek

Traditional nomad girl from western Sichuan

The amazing Yading Nature Reserve

Monastery along the overland route from Chengdu to Shangri La

Extravagant Yak offers high-end adventure tours throughout the traditional Tibetan region of Kham as well as to Lhasa and the Mt. Everest Region. Owned by two foreigners who are experts in the Kham region and its language, culture and history, they also employ local Tibetan guides who are familiar with foreign culture and can explain the uniqueness of the Tibetan people in fluent English.

The fun Old Town in Shangri La

Nomad Tibetans and their yaks in the mountains of western Sichuan.

Extravagant Yak offers the following high-quality, professionally run adventures:

Trekking around the 7556 meter mountain of Minya Konka

Cycling from Chengdu to Kangding

Overland Journey through Kham

Classic Journey to Lhasa and Mt. Everest

Contact Extravagant Yak today to arrange your upcoming journey to the Roof of the World! When you contact them, tell them that Losang from the Land of Snows recommended you to them!

Yaks grazing on the Kham grasslands

Overlooking the town of Gyantse along the way from Lhasa to Mt. Everest

Everest viewed through the prayer flags at Rongphu Monastery

Young monk boys from Lithang in the Sichuan part of Kham

Alpine Lake at the Yading Nature Reserve

The rugged mountains around Kangding in the Kham region of western Sichuan

Evergreen forest along the way to Shangri La

Plateau Photo Tours, which I co-own, will be hosting a Kham Tibet Overland Journey from June 8th to June 22nd, 2013. This adventure will take you through some of the most stunning scenerey and best preserved culture found on the Tibetan Plateau. Starting in Xining, the largest city on the Tibetan Plateau, we will fly to Jyekundo, the capital town of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in the traditional Tibetan region of Kham in modern day Qinghai province. At 97% Tibetan, it has the highest percentage of Tibetan people anywhere on the Tibetan Plateau. Full of Buddhist monasteries, pilgrimage sites, grasslands, yak herding communities, snow-capped peaks, alpine forests and pristine rivers, it also is full of traditional Tibetan culture that cannot be found in other areas of Tibet.

Kham Tibetan man from Jyekundo

After spending 2 nights in the northeastern Tibetan Plateau city of Xining, we will fly to Jyekundo, the capital of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. We will spend 2 days exploring this modern Tibetan town and the many Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, temples and pilgrimage sites that are nearby. After that, the real adventure begins as we take the next 9 days to cover nearly 1000 kilometers (620 miles) through one of the most remote and most beautiful corners of Tibet. Along the way, we will be photographing and experiencing Tibetan culture at its best. We will be doing overnight stays in isolated Buddhist monasteries, meeting with nomads living in traditional yak wool tents, eating a meal in a remote farming village, drinking tea at the largest nunnery in eastern Tibet, wandering around 800 year old monasteries and gazing out to the most rugged and stunning terrain that eastern Tibet offers.

Buddhist stupas in Yushu prefecture

This tour will take us well off the beaten path to parts of Tibet that few foreigners have seen. We will be experiencing traditional culture that most travelers to Tibet didn’t know existed. Your 2 guides know this area intimately and will assist you in learning more about the culture and people you are photographing. Not only will you walk away from this tour with an amazing portfolio of images from Tibet that nobody else has, you will come away with a deep understanding of the Tibetan people and their unique culture.

Map of Cultural and Historical Tibet

Map showing the route we will be taking and the places we will be going to

Here is the itinerary we will be following for the tour:

June 8: All participants must arrive in Xining, China by 4pm. We will stay in a centrally located hotel in the city. Xining elevation: 2300 meters.

June 9: We will spend the day acclimatizing to the elevation and exploring Xining, the largest city on the Tibetan Plateau. Xining is a melting pot of Tibetan Buddhist, Muslim and Chinese culture. We will explore some mosques, Buddhist monasteries and other cultural sites in the city.

June 10: In the mid-morning, our flight departs Xining for Jyekundo, the capital of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. After getting settled in our hotel, we will explore this town and its unique Tibetan culture. Jyekundo elevation: 3700 meters.

June 11: We will spend this day exploring several of the main Buddhist monasteries, nunneries and pilgrimage sites in and around Jyekundo. The Gyanak Mani Temple is a main pilgrimage site in the area and contains the largest number of hand carved prayer stones in all of Tibet. After this, we will go to the Princess Wencheng Temple, which has a short pilgrimage circuit around it while being covered in millions of Tibetan prayer flags. The friendly monks at Domkhar will allow us to stroll through their monastery in the afternoon photographing the monks and sites there.

Tibetan woman from Jyekundo

Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims in Yushu prefecture

Monks from Donkhar Monastery. We will be going here on June 11th

Monk reciting prayers at Domkhar Monastery. We will be here June 11th

June 12: In the morning we will depart Jyekundo and drive 105 kilometers (65 miles) to Surmang. Surmang is a small village located near high altitude nomadic grasslands. Surmang is home to the 600 year old monastery of Surmang Dutsitil, which currently has over 400 monks. Most of the villagers are yak and sheep herders. We will explore the village and monastery and stay the night at the monastery guesthouse. Surmang elevation: 4010 meters.

Nomad girl from near Surmang. We will be here on June 12th

Surmang Village: We will be here on June 12th

June 13: From Surmang, we will drive 185 kilometers (115 miles) through stunning scenery to the town of Sharda, the county capital of Nangchen. Along the way, we will stop in a few small herding/nomadic communities as well as stop to explore Gaden Monastery. Gaden is set in a beautiful location surrounded by the Dzi River, a tributary to the Mekong River. The picturesque monastery is nearly 500 years old and is home to about 200 monks. Before arriving in Sharda, we will stop and photograph Surmang Namgyeltse Monastery, which is also home to several hundred monks. This night we will stay in a hotel in Sharda, elevation 3660 meters.

June 14: We will spend a full-day exploring Sharda and the nearby region. Sharda is a mid-sized Tibetan town that is full of traditional Tibetan culture. We will visit the nearby monastery of Dzamo as well as the Negyama Nunnery.

Gaden Monastery: We will be here on June 13th

Buddhist nun in Sharda: We will be here on June 14th.

Overlooking Sharda: We will be here June 14th

Nygyama Monastery along the Mekong River: We will be here June 14th

Tibetan woman from Sharda. We will be here June 14th

June 15: From Sharda, we will drive 80 kilometers (50 miles) south to the village of Gar. Along the way, we will stop in the farming village of Becha, which sits beneath a jagged mountain ridge. Gar lies in a stunning valley that is partially covered in evergreen forest. The area is abundant in wildlife including deer, fox, bears and even monkeys. Lower Gar has a small village, home to a few hundred people, while upper Gar has a monastery that has around 80 monks. We will stay the night at the monastery guesthouse. Gar elevation: 4100 meters.

Beautiful Gar Monastery: We will be here June 15th

Mountains near Beizha Village: We will be here June 15th

Upper Gar Monastery: We will be here June 15th

June 16: In the morning we will leave Gar and drive 210 kilometers (130 miles) to Dana Monastery. Our first stop will be at Tsechu Monastery, where the Kings of Nangchen lived for hundreds of years prior to 1958. This pilgrimage site is covered in millions of hand carved prayer (mani) stones. The humble former home of the king still remains. From here, we will continue on to the Jamar Mani temple, the second largest collection of prayer stones in Tibet.  From here we will drive through grasslands filled with yaks until we reach Dana Monastery, one of the most remote and most picturesque monasteries in Tibet. Dana elevation: 4375 meters.

Nangchen King’s Palace: We will be here June 16th

Stupa’s at the Nangchen King’s Palace: We will be here June 16th

Evergreen forests near the King’s Palace: We will be here June 16th

June 17: We will spend the day exploring the amazing area around Dana Monastery, one of the oldest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in Tibet. Dana is a remote monastery surrounded by amazing, jagged mountain peaks.  In the afternoon we will take a dip in some nearby natural hot springs. We will stay the night in the monastery guesthouse.

Dana Monastery: We will be here June 16th and 17th

Monk from Dana Monastery: We will be here June 16th and 17th

Mountains around Dana Monastery: We will be here June 16th and 17th

Stupa’s below the mountains near Dana: We will be here June 16th and 17th

Your guide Tashi at Dana Monastery

June 18: This day we will depart from Dana Monastery and drive 240 kilometers (150 miles) back to Sharda. Along the way, we will stop at at Gechak Nunnery, the largest nunnery in the Kham region of Tibet with over 400 nuns. In Sharda (elevation 3660 meters), we will stay at a hotel.

Mountain pass in Kham: We will be here June 18th

Mountains along the way to Gechak Nunnery: We will be here June 18th

Gechak Nunnery: We will be here June 18th

Stupa at Gechak Nunnery: We will be here June 18th

Trulshik Monastery: We will be here June 18th

Beicha Village: We will be here June 15th

June 19: After breakfast, we will leave Sharda and drive north along the upper reaches of the Mekong River. We will drive 330 kilometers (205 miles) to the nomadic community of Lishen. In Lishen, we will experience traditional nomadic culture up close as we spend a night with Tibetan yak herders. Lishen elevation: 4320 meters.

Upper Rashul Village: We will be here June 19th

Snow-capped mountain pass: We will be here June 19th

Monastery along a Mekong tributary: We will be here June 18th

Juela Monastery: We will be here June 18th

June 20: In the late morning, we will depart Lishen and drive 140 kilometers (87 miles) back to Jyekundo, the capital town of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.  Along the way we will go through some yak herder communities and cross a high pass with beautiful snow-capped peaks. We will stay in a hotel in Jyekundo, elevation 3700 meters.

Bend in the Yangtze River: We will be here June 20th

Clear waters of the Yangtze River: We will be here June 20th

Tibetan man from Jyekundo: We will be here on June 21st

June 21: Final day of the tour! We will spend one final full day exploring the vibrant town of Jyekundo. We will have time to go to markets, walk around town and wander around one or two more temples. We will stay in a hotel in Jyekundo.

June 22: In the morning, all participants will fly back to the city of Xining from Jyekundo.

A photography and cultural tour: This tour is  designed for anyone who loves photography and exploring unique cultures.  Any level of photographer is welcome to join and no specific type of camera is required. Each day we will be taking you to unique, off-the-beaten path places that very few foreigners before you have been to. You will have ample time to explore and photograph each area we will be going to. Your guides will be there to help translate for you so you can communicate with local Tibetans and to explain Tibetan culture and history in an easy-to-understand way. Space is limited to just 6 participants in order to give you the best experience possible. For less than $250 per day (including the cost of a roundtrip domestic flight), this is a great deal!

For more information, send an email to jamin@plateauphototours.com or apply for the tour at: Plateau Photo Tours Kham Tibet Journey.

UPDATED 13 April 2013

Each year I do my best to keep up-to-date on the various travel regulations and restrictions across the Tibetan Plateau. Tibet, including the regions of Amdo and Kham, can sometimes be politically unstable. When areas and regions are unstable, the government (not travel agencies) either closes specific areas or imposes travel regulations, such as group travel. It is important to remember that it is not the travel agencies who impose or even want these regulations, but rather it is the Chinese government who hands down these travel restrictions. Travel agencies must abide by the regulations given to them by the Chinese government.

Mt. Everest viewed from the Rongphu Monastery on the Tibet side

Remote mountain pass in the Kham region of Tibet

Here are a list of Current Travel Regulations for each region of the Tibetan Plateau:

Lhasa and the Tibet Autonomous Region

Currently, Lhasa is OPEN to foreign tourists! Permits began being accepted again on 25 March 2013. The current regulations state that no group travel is required, however that could change by the time high season (June through early October) comes. It appears that for now, solo travelers can apply for travel permits. Also, mixed nationality groups can also apply for permits. Remember….permits are just 1 thing that you need in order to travel to the Tibet Autonomous Region! You also need a tour guide, a private vehicle and driver. Only a travel agency can arrange these for you.

This year, the Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) is requiring all foreign travelers going to Lhasa and the Tibet Tourism Bureau to pay a tour deposit in advance before they will process travel permits. The deposit depends on the length of your tour and ranges between $500 USD and $1000 USD per person. This sounds strange (and is!), but this deposit is required before your permit can be applied for. This deposit goes towards your tour cost and must be sent to the travel agency you use at least a few weeks before you plan to arrive in Lhasa. This is NOT a rule the travel agencies are making, but rather is a rule handed down to travel agencies from the Tibet Tourism Bureau. So, when your travel agency asks for this deposit, please understand why they are doing it.

There are doubts about Japanese and Norwegian tourists being able to get travel permits for Tibet. Because of disputes that the Chinese government has with these nations, it might not be possible for these people to get permits. It is best to contact an agency and see if they are able to secure permits for you.

Everest Base Camp (EBC) is also now open to foreign travelers. It was closed for most of last year, but is open now for 2013.

All of Chamdo prefecture, with the exception of Rawok Lake (which is only 8 kilometers inside Chamdo prefecture), has been closed to foreign travelers since March 2010 and remains closed for 2013. It is unlikely that this area will reopen this year. This means that the overland routes from Sichuan (Chengdu) and Yunnan (Kunming and Shangri La) will not be able to take place again this year. You will only be able to travel as far as the border of the eastern Tibet Autonomous Region.

Tibetan nomads on the Amdo grasslands of Ngawa prefecture (northern Sichuan)

Tibetan man from Tingri, near Everest Base Camp

The Tibetan Regions in Qinghai Province

Over 95% of the land mass of Qinghai is designated as “Tibetan Autonomous Prefectures”. Qinghai is divided into 6 Tibetan Autonomous Prefectures while one other prefecture has a large amount of Tibetans as well. Over the past 18 months, there have been numerous self-immolations and small protests throughout the province, especially in and around the town of Rebkong, known as Tongren in Chinese. Over the past several months, some people report being able to go to Rebkong without any problems while others have been asked to leave shortly after arriving. It seems that foreigners can go there right now, but the situation could change at anytime.

The Amdo regions of to the south of Qinghai lake (Tsolho / Hainan prefecture) are all open as are all counties in Golok prefecture. The two counties that lie along the north shore of Qinghai Lake, Gangtsa / Gangca and Haiyan are both open to foreign travelers, while the two counties that lie to the north of those 2 counties, Menyuan and Qilian, remain closed as they have been for the past 20 years.

Though there has been some unrest in Yushu prefecture, all six counties remain open to foreign travelers.

The large prefecture of Tsochang / Haixi in far western Qinghai has had some closures in place for more than 20 years. The small city of Golmud is open, but the counties of Delingha and Wulan are permanently closed to foreigners.

Nomad tents beneath the Nyenchen Dangla Mouuntains north of Lhasa

Nomads on the move near Nagartse

The Tibetan Regions in Sichuan Province

Western and Northern Sichuan each contain a Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Ngawa / Aba prefecture, part of the traditional Tibetan region of Amdo, is located in northern Sichuan and has had some areas of major unrest the past 2 years. Ngawa / Aba county, one of 13 counties within the prefecture, remains closed indefinitely to foreign travelers. The counties of Dzamtang (Rangtang), Marthang (Hongyuan) and Zoige (Ruo’ergai) have also had political unrest, and are closed from time to time depending on the political climate. The only way of finding out if these counties are open, are to go there and find out first hand. Local police will always say the area is “open”, even if it is closed.

Garze prefecture, part of the traditional Tibetan region of Kham located in western Sichuan, is currently all open to foreign travelers. However, even though this area is open, sometimes the bus stations in Chengdu and Shangri La (Yunnan province) refuse to sell foreigners bus tickets going to counties within this prefecture. This is usually because the bus station attendant is not sure whether the region is open or not and since they don’t know, refuse to sell tickets to foreigners to be on the safe side. There is a small bus station in the Tibetan District of Chengdu, known as Wu Hou Ci. In front of the Kangding Hotel, there is a small bus station that has 2 daily buses leaving each morning to Kangding. This bus station will almost always sell tickets to foreigners even when the other bus stations will not.

The remote Tibetan Autonomous County of Muli, located in southwest Sichuan province, also is open at this time to foreign travelers.

Nomads in the Amdo regions around Qinghai Lake

Kham Tibetan nomad girl from Yushu prefecture

The Tibetan Regions in Gansu Province

Gansu province has one Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture that is part of the traditional Tibetan region of Amdo. Gannan prefecture has been a hot-spot for political unrest for more than a year. Along with several small protests, there have been more than 2 dozen self-immolations in this area. Portions of the prefecture, including Labrang Monastery, were closed in October and November 2012 and again for a short time during Tibetan New Year in 2013, but these areas are now open again to foreign travelers. Check back frequently on the status of this prefecture as its unstableness could cause it to close again at anytime.

The Tibetan Regions in Yunnan Province

Yunnan province has one small Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. Dechen (Diqing) prefecture is part of the traditional Tibetan region of Kham and is centered around the large town of Shangri La (Gyelthang in Tibetan). This prefecture is currently open and only very rarely closes to foreign travelers. However, sometime the bus station in Shangri La will refuse to sell bus tickets to foreigners going north to Xiangcheng or Daocheng counties located in western Sichuan even when these areas are open to foreign travelers. This is usually because no one has notified the bus station that western Sichuan is open and in order to be on the safe side, the bus station attendant won’t sell tickets to foreigners.

Amdo nomads on the grasslands in southwest Gansu province

The Potala Palace in Lhasa

The travel regulations for all areas of the Tibetan Plateau could change at anytime without any notice. There is no official website or other reliable source of information that posts the travel regulations and closures in Tibetan areas.  I will do my best to keep this post updated throughout 2013. Do keep in mind that it is not the travel agencies who make the travel regulations or close specific regions. These decisions are all made by the higher level government of each specific area.

If you have any questions regarding travel regulations or anything else travel related to Tibet, send an email to thelandofsnows@gmail.com

Labrang Monastery བླ་བྲང་བཀྲ་དགོན་པ་ is the largest monastery in the traditional Tibetan region of Amdo. Established in 1709, Labrang housed over 4000 monks at its peak, but now only has around 1500 monks with another couple of hundred lay students. Located in the Gansu Part of Amdo, Labrang is considered the cultural heart of Amdo Tibetan culture along with nearby town of Rebkong. Labrang is one of the “Great Six” Gelukpa sect monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism.

A monk walking around Labrang Monastery

The Golden Stupa at Labrang Monastery during the summer time

Nomad tents on the grasslands outside of Labrang/Xiahe

Main road going through the monastery

Labrang Monastery is located in Xiahe county, known in Tibetan as Sang Chu བསང་ཆུ་. The town lies along the Da Xia (Sang Chu) River, which is a tributary of the Yellow River. The town of Xiahe is approximately 50% Tibetan with the remaining 50% being mostly Han Chinese and Hui Muslims. The eastern part of the city is predominantly Chinese and is well developed. It contains several large hotels for government officials and Chinese tourists. Labrang Monastery lies in the middle of town. The western part of town is nearly all Tibetans, many of whom live in small, traditional style Tibetan homes. Most foreign travelers prefer to stay in the area near to where the monastery begins. There are several good Tibetan owned hotels in this area as well as several Tibetan owned restaurants.

Tibetan nomad wearing a traditional style coat and sheep-skin boots

Monks outside the assembly hall at Labrang Monastery

Some of the thousands of prayer wheels that surround the monastery

Labrang Monastery is an important pilgrimage destination for Tibetans living across the Amdo region. Though religious pilgrims come throughout the year, the most popular time pilgrims arrive in Labrang is the weeks before and after Losar, or Tibetan New Year. Large festivals take place in Labrang during Losar each year. A huge Thangka (a huge Buddhist painting) is displayed on the Thangka Wall near the monastery and many thousands of Tibetans are in attendance. Each day during Losar thousands of pilgrims walk the kora (pilgrimage circuit) around the monastery. The pilgrimage circuit is lined with thousands of prayer wheels. 

Labrang Monastery

A monk walking barefoot through the snow

Tibetans walking around the monastery

Nomad Tibetan from near Labrang/Xiahe

Labrang lies at an elevation of 2950 meters (9675 feet) in a valley that is partially surrounded by an evergreen forest. The location is quite beautiful and relaxing. There are excellent hiking trails in the area that are well worth exploring. The town is quite modern and has several good hotel options to choose from, both budget and mid-range. I personally always stay at the Bao Ma Hotel or the Overseas Tibetan Hotel, both of which lie near the monastery.

Getting to Labrang/Xiahe is easy. There are multiple buses per day from Lanzhou to Xiahe, which take about 4 hours. There is also a daily bus from both Xining and Rebkong (Tongren) in Qinghai province to Xiahe.

If you have any questions about Labrang or other regions of Tibet, send me an email at thelandofsnows@gmail.com

Monk walking through the snow

Pilgrims walking around Labrang Monastery

One of my favorite websites on Tibetan culture is YoWangdu. The site is maintained by Lobsang Wangdu and his wife Yolanda.  Along with great articles about Tibetan customs, religion and travel advice, they also have excellent recipes on how to cook amazing Tibetan food!

From now until February 11th, YoWangdu Tibetan Culture are sharing a special Losar offer to the Land of Snows community: 30% off their Tibetan Home Cooking ebook and video series, from now through February 11. Go to the “Feed your soul with Tibetan Home Cooking” section on the sidebar of www.yowangdu.com, and enter the coupon code LOSARLANDOFSNOWS on the second page of their ebook order system to get $18.90 price, down from $27. You can get up to 50% discount for a little social media work – see their site for more information. (You can get up to 50% off for a little social media sharing – see their site.)

Do yourself a favor and get a copy of this great book!

Lhasa ལྷ་ས་, meaning “place of the gods” in Tibetan, is the most important city in Tibet. Lying at an elevation of 3655 meters / 12,000 feet, Lhasa is the second largest city on the Tibetan Plateau after Xining ཟི་ལིང་. Historically, Lhasa was the capital of the traditional Tibetan region of Ü དབུས་, though today it is the capital of all of the Tibet Autonomous Region. Lhasa is a prefecture-level city that includes all of the city of Lhasa as well as 7 surrounding counties. The total population of Lhasa prefecture is around 1.1 million with more than 400,000 in the city of Lhasa.

The busy Tibetan district of Lhasa with the Potala in the background

Tibetan pilgrim in Lhasa

A nun sweeping at Ani Sangkung Nunnery in Lhasa

The roof of Jokhang Temple

No trip to Tibet is complete without spending at least a few days in Lhasa. Though Lhasa is not the small, remote and forbidden city it once was, it is still a fun place to spend a few days exploring. Most travelers to Tibet are surprised that Lhasa is very modern and developed and they are surprised that Lhasa, especially from May through early October, has warmer temperatures than they expected. Since the controversial train line to Lhasa opened in July 2006, Tibet has seen a steady increase in the amount of annual tourists. In 2011, 8.7 million tourists visited Tibet and in 2012 Tibet received over 10.3 million tourists (http://tinyurl.com/b7mpxa8). By 2015, up to 15 million tourists are expected to go to Tibet each year. Domestic Chinese travelers make up well over 90% of the tourists who go to Tibet each year.

A Tibetan woman spinning prayer wheels in Lhasa

The Potala Palace viewed from the West Gate of Lhasa

Ani Sangkung Nunnery in Lhasa

Tibetan woman with her prayer wheel in Lhasa

Lhasa is a large city, but the heart and soul of the city is in the ancient Tibetan district which surrounds the Jokhang Temple. The Jokhang is Tibet’s most famous and holiest temple. Pilgrims from all across Tibet arrive each day to prostrate in front of it. During Losar, or Tibetan New Year, tens of thousands of pilgrims arrive in Lhasa to worship. When booking a tour to Lhasa, be sure to stay in one of the many excellent Tibetan owned hotels and guesthouses that are in the Tibetan district. Two of my favorite mid-range hotels in Lhasa are the Yak Hotel and the Kyichu Hotel.

The Barkhor བར་སྐོར་ is a maze of narrow streets that surround Jokhang Temple. Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims walk around the Barkhor each day, often prostrating along the way. The Barkhor streets are lined with guesthouses, restaurants, tea houses, souvenir shops, billiard halls and much more. In front of Jokhang Temple is the large Barkhor Square which is filled with more shops and more prostrating pilgrims.

Monk debate at Sera Monastery

Overlooking the Barkhor with the Potala in the background

Monks chanting at Sera Monastery

Stupa’s in Lhasa

Lhasa has plenty of things to do to keep oneself busy for 3 or 4 days. Simply walking around the Barkhor with all of the Tibetan pilgrims will probably be the biggest highlight of a journey to Lhasa. Here is a list of other things I recommend seeing and doing while in Lhasa:

• Go up on the roof of Jokhang Temple. The views from here overlooking Barkhor Square and the Potala Palace in the distance are amazing.
• Check out the monk debates at Sera Monastery. Though monk debates take place in most Tibetan Buddhist monasteries across Tibet, seeing it at Sera is special. The debates usually take place at 3pm during the week.
• Visit Nechung Monastery. Nechung is just a short walk below Drepung Monastery and was the former residence of the State Oracle of Tibet.
• Visit the nuns at Ani Sangkung Nunnery. Though there are only a few dozen nuns here, it is a fun place to spend a morning. There is a pleasant tea house that the nuns operate in the courtyard.
• Enjoy a meal at the New Mandala Restaurant. This Nepali-run restaurant sits above the Barkhor with an excellent view of Jokhang and has excellent Nepali, Indian and Tibetan food.
• Enjoy a cup of real coffee from the Summit Cafe. This foreign owned and Tibetan staffed cafe has a few locations that serve excellent coffee and great Western food.
• Drink some Cha Ngamo (sweet milk tea). If you don’t like butter tea, you might like sweet milk tea. It is served at dozens of small tea houses around the Barkhor.
• Walk the kora around the Potala Palace. Follow the pilgrims around the former winter residence of the Dalai Lamas. You will rub shoulders and interact with people from all across Tibet.
• Get lost in the maze of the Barkhor. To me, the Barkhor is the best thing about Lhasa! Don’t worry if you get lost….the experience will be worth it!
• Buy souvenirs at Dropenling. Dropenling sells quality souvenirs made by local Tibetan artisans. Support the local Tibetan people by purchasing souvenirs directly from them!

Drepung Monasery

The Norbulinka, former summer residence of the Dalai Lama

Overlooking the Tibetan district of Lhasa

A nun in Lhasa

As with all areas of the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR), a complete organized tour including travel permits and a tour guide, are required in order to travel to Lhasa. There are no exceptions to these regulations. For more information on Lhasa or more information on Tibet, go to my Facebook Page or send me an email at thelandofsnows@gmail.com.

Pilgrims in front of Jokhang Temple

With her prayer wheel in Lhasa

Nechung Monastery, former home of the State Oracle of Tibet